Traveling to foreign lands can be an exciting and exhilarating experience for all of us. However, what truly makes these moments unforgettable is the pleasure of indulging in exceptional cuisine. Seoul, the capital city of South Korea, is now gaining recognition as one of the world’s premier travel destinations, beyond Asia. K-food, which stands for Korean cuisine, is also rising in popularity, aligned with K-pop and K-culture. ChosunBiz aims to introduce Michelin-starred restaurants in Seoul that offer a modern twist on traditional Korean cuisine. [Editor’s note]
When you hear the word “Hansik” (Korean cuisine), what comes to mind first? Kimchi, bibimbap, bulgogi—various dishes might pop into your head. However, there’s a chef who views Hansik as more than just a menu of dishes. This chef is none other than Lee Jun of the two-Michelin-starred Soigné.
Lee doesn’t define Hansik merely as food. He goes a step further and thinks of it as a ‘behavior.
Take bibimbap, for example. One might think of ingredients like seasoned vegetables, gochujang (Korean chili paste), sesame oil, and rice as essential to what makes bibimbap. However, what truly defines bibimbap is not the ingredients but the act of “mixing” them together. Even unexpected ingredients like butter or margarine don’t detract from it. No matter how Western the ingredients may be, through the process of mixing, it transforms into bibimbap, a true expression of Hansik.
The same applies to kimchi. Sometimes, when Koreans are eating a rich or heavy Western dish like pasta, they might start craving the refreshing bite of kimchi. Adding kimchi creates a kind of magic—no matter how Western the main dish is, it instantly takes on a distinctly ‘Korean’ essence.
By viewing Hansik as an action, Lee’s approach to it is more free and innovative. He has liberated himself from the notion that Hansik must include certain traditional ingredients. As a result, Soigné has changed its course menu every season for nearly a decade.
Yet, there is one dish that has remained unchanged: the “Seorae Snail.” This dish reinterprets the familiar emotions of eating golbaengi-muchim (spicy whelk salad) and steamed egg in a luxurious manner, reminiscent of what one might find in the alleys of Euljiro. At first glance, it may seem far from Hansik, but when you taste it, a distinctly Korean sentiment comes through.
This dish features tender steamed eggs topped with truffle, Korean snails, spinach, and Parmesan cheese. The first bite is dominated by the rich aroma of truffle, followed by the fragrant spinach. As the fluffy eggs melt in your mouth, the chewy snails and the umami of Parmesan cheese harmonize beautifully. The delicate scent of green onion oil rises to your nose, evoking the texture of whelk and the lingering taste of spicy green onion salad—a truly intriguing dish.
One can also catch glimpses of Korean culinary culture in one of the main courses: Hanwoo steak. A uniquely Korean feature, banchan (side dishes), is served alongside the steak. You can pair the perfectly grilled Hanwoo with walnut anchovy stir-fry, golbaengi chive pesto, or pickled cucumbers according to your preference.
When you taste the steak on its own, the rich juices of the Hanwoo burst forth, enhanced by the salt’s umami. Adding the golbaengi pesto gives the sensation of eating the steak with salted oysters. The other side dishes can be mixed and matched to your liking—a characteristic hallmark of Hansik, where the art of combining side dishes is key.
The name Soigné comes from the French word for “elegant” or “well-groomed.” It’s also Chef Lee Jun’s nickname. In foreign kitchens, when a dish’s taste, presentation, and plating are all impeccable, they say it’s “soigné.” This is also Chef Lee’s goal: to create daring dishes that make anyone who tastes them exclaim his nickname as a compliment.
― Could you briefly introduce yourself?
“My name is Lee Jun, and I’m the chef of Soigné. I studied cooking in Korea and the United States. Since I was a child, I’ve loved creating things, which led me to pursue my dream of becoming a chef.”
― The name ‘Soigné’ is quite unique. What kind of place is Soigné?
“Soigné represents modern Seoul cuisine. We aim to reinterpret the dining habits and culture of Koreans in a contemporary way. The name is inspired by the French word ‘Soigné.’ In foreign kitchens, ‘soigné’ is used to describe a dish that is well-made. While ‘perfect’ is also used as an exclamation, it carries a somewhat cold connotation. In contrast, ‘soigné’ has a warmer, more comforting feel. This is the kind of food I want to present to our guests.”
― How do you view Hansik?
“Hansik is unique. It’s not just about using Korean ingredients with Korean cooking methods. How you eat it also defines Hansik. For example, the tradition of ordering various dishes to share among everyone is a characteristic unique to Korea. If you look at the history of Hansik, it wasn’t created by strictly following specific rules; rather, it evolved as those rules were broken, leading to the development of culture. Of course, there were minimal guidelines, such as having a certain number of side dishes on a table, but the most important element was sincerity. Even in ancestral rites, it wasn’t about strictly following a list of required dishes but ensuring that the food, however simple, was prepared with heartfelt sincerity.”
― You mentioned that it’s difficult to define Hansik. Could you give us more explanation?
“In fact, if you ask people to name a dish that represents Hansik, each person might give a different answer. This contrasts with countries like Japan, where sushi is the clear representative, or Vietnam, where pho is iconic. In Korea, we say someone eats like a Korean when they share food in a typically Korean manner. If a foreigner drinks soju well, we don’t necessarily say they are good at eating Korean food. But if they can drink ‘so-maek’ (a mix of soju and beer) well, we say they’re like a Korean. Even though beer isn’t a traditional Korean beverage, we have our own way of enjoying it. From this perspective, I see Hansik as something that’s defined not only by taste but also by behavior.”
― How has Soigné been developing Hansik?
“We develop our menu by identifying key themes that run through Hansik. One is the ‘ingredients’ that are greatly influenced by Korea’s geological features. There are ingredients that taste best when grown in Korean soil. We also consider cultural and anthropological aspects of Korean cuisine. Koreans place great importance on foods that boost stamina and health, and they prefer to eat dishes that align with the seasons. Fermentation is another crucial element. When creating a menu, we make sure to incorporate at least one of these characteristics.”
― What does ‘Seoul-ness’ mean to you?
“In truth, it’s hard to pinpoint a single dish that represents Seoul’s cuisine. Seoul is a unique place. If you look at the cityscape, you can see both ancient palaces and modern high-rise buildings. There are mountains, but also rivers. Each neighborhood has its own distinct character. When you look closely, they all seem different, but from a distance, they come together under the common identity of ‘Seoul.’ I wanted to express this subtle boundary in our food. Each ingredient may seem strong and individualistic on its own, but when they’re combined, they harmonize into something that feels like Hansik.”
― Does Soigné have a dish that embodies this concept?
“Our oldest dish, ‘Seo-rae Snail,’ embodies this idea. Most Seoulites are familiar with the golbaengi (whelk) alley in Euljiro. I wanted to capture the essence of that Seoul experience. Although the dish doesn’t include whelk or green onion salad, once you hear the explanation, you can sense those familiar emotions. We aimed to evoke the feeling of whelk salad and steamed eggs with the fluffy egg pudding and snails. Then, we added oil extracted from green onions to capture the essence of the green onion salad. While it may not remind you of whelk salad when you eat each element separately, when eaten together in one bite, the dish evokes that memory. This is a unique touch that only Soigné offers.”
― What direction do you see Soigné heading in the future?
“I believe cooking is similar to making a movie. It’s not just about the actors; the crew behind the scenes is equally important. Just as the names of everyone who worked hard on a film appear in the end credits, I want all of my staff to feel fulfilled. I also want Soigné to remain a place that constantly ‘creates. dishes’ In fact, many things at Soigné were attempted for the first time. For example, our transparent kitchen, where the entire kitchen is visible from the outside, is unique to this place. I hope Soigné will be remembered as a restaurant that continuously seeks out new challenges.”
